HI guys,

Ok, so I'm listening to Denny right now, ( brewingnetwork broadcast )
and he's making me mighty thirsty

Where is Denny's recipe located ? is it posted on the forum ?

I'd like to look at it, and see what I need in order to make it.

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Man, it's everywhere! Here's the official version...all I ask is that you brew it exactly like it is the first time. No hop subs, no yeast subs...especially NO British yeasts!

Recipe : DC's Rye IPA

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (GAL): 5.00 Wort Size (GAL): 5.00
Total Grain (LBS): 16.25
Anticipated OG: 1.073 Plato: 17.8
Anticipated SRM: 12.2
Anticipated IBU: 75.1
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73 %
Wort Boil Time: 70 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
67.7 11.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2
18.5 3.00 lbs. Rye Malt America 1.030 4
7.7 1.25 lbs. Crystal 60L America 1.034 60
3.1 0.50 lbs. Cara-Pils Dextrine Malt 1.033 2
3.1 0.50 lbs. Wheat Malt America 1.038 2

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Mt. Hood Whole 4.90 15.0 FWH
1.00 oz. Columbus Whole 17.80 54.4 60 min.
0.50 oz. Mt. Hood Whole 4.90 5.7 30 min.
1.50 oz. Mt. Hood Whole 4.90 0.0 0 min.
1.00 oz. Columbus Whole 15.00 0.0 Dry Hop


Extras

Amount Name Type Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 Tsp Irish Moss Fining 15 Min.(boil)
1.00 Tsp Gypsum Other 60 Min.(boil) add to the boil, not the mash


Yeast
-----

BrewTek CL-50 California Pub Brewery Ale or Wyeast 1272 Am. ale II

Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Name :
BrewTek CL-50 California Pub Brewery Ale

Total Grain LBS : 16.25
Grain Temp : 63.00 F
Total Water QTS : 21.61 - Before Additional Infusions
Total Water GAL : 5.40
Tun Thermal Mass : 0.00


Step Rest Start Stop Direct/ Infuse Infuse Infuse
Step Name Time Time Temp Temp Infuse Temp Amount Ratio
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sacc 0 60 153 153 Infuse 166 21.61 1.33


Total Water QTS : 21.61 - After Additional Infusions
Total Water GAL : 5.40 - After Additional Infusions


All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.
All infusion amounts are in quarts.

did you try a search? it's there plenty of times in other threads.

While kinda on the topic, here is a great recipe resource:

http://beerdujour.com/AwardWinningRecipes.htm

In addition to some of Denny's recipes, there is a link there to a whole ton of Jamil's award winning recipes.

We just had our club 10th anniv party last saturday and Fred Bonjour....whose site that is... had on tap his 'Da Tubble Wi Dubble' and it was excellent. Worth a try.

Have fun with the RyePA Frosty.

I can't wait to taste mine! Thanks Denny

Thanks for the recipe Denny.

Crap I don't have that yeast. I will have to get
that before I even think of doing it.

By the way, I JUST finished listening to Denny on that
brewingnetwork.... that must have been a 3 hour deal
Denny, can't believe how much info you gave out, and
how much fun you had doing it.

Pretty fun stuff.

Mark

Hey, Mark, although the Brwtek yeast is by far the best, WY1272 gives pretty good results. I'll even sanction using US-56 or WY1056!

Denny;
In an IPA what differences do you note in the beer made with the four yeasts you mentioned (CL50, WY1272, WY1056, US56)?

All are very clean. CL50 lleaves a wonderfully silky mouthfeel that really complements the rye. 1272 has a tiny touch of fruitiness to it and again a farily smooth mouthfeel. US56 and 1056 are very clean and get out of the way to let the malt and hops come through, but tend to leave the beer just a bit thinner (in mouthfeel) than the other 2.

Unfortunately, I've only made it with 1056, but it's delicious. Just whipped up a batch this morning. I've figured out how Denny came up with the grain bill. Keep adding/crushing grains until nothing else will fit into a 5 gallon bucket.

Hey Denny, what is the purpose of the gypsum in the boil. I use gypsum every batch but I always use it to add back some hardness to the mash water because I use a large portion of distilled water. (The mash can't buffer my well water enough for pale beer. It's ok for darker beers because of the dark malts .) Just curious.

CLB

Hi Denny,

ah great stuff

I do have a ton of US56. I also have my fav which is S04, but I guess that is a no-no.

I need to get some of this "Cara-Pils" , I have never seen it, and really do not know
what it is.

Anyway, at this point I have few of the ingredients, I have no Mt.Hood, and no Columbus.

Hmm, I wonder if anyone in my local brew group has tried your recipe Denny.... I wonder,
I wonder .

Anyway thanks for sharing.

Mark

Frosty, I just ordered some cara-pils, Mt. Hood and Columbus hops for
the RYE PA. I'm still thinking about CL-50 vs US56. I have the US56. The
thing about the CL-50 is the supplier, Brewtek, wants payment via PayPal.
I don't have a PayPal. Guess I could send them a check.

This next batch will be about the 6th time I've brew this nectar of the
tun. Never with CL-50 or US56, I used Wyeast 1272. I dry hopped it the
first time. I found out I'm a "hop wussie"

To answer the Cara-Pils Question...

It's a carmel malt.
I have some and am starting to use it as a head retention sort of sweetner.
It's a caramel malt like whenever you see the Cara.
Cara means carmel.

Remember i am still learning the All Grain way too.

So i think flaked barley is an awesome way to go for head and body.
I think from this Stout i just made it's what i need in everyone of my Bitter recipies.

I've learned so much from all the freinds here.
And i surley hope i help the same.

Also want to add Oregon is looking beautiful to me when my lawsuit is over. If you all would welcome me..

Burp: Cl-50 all the way. You should be able to pay them without having a pay-pal account. That "silky mouthfeel" thing Denny mentions is definately cool. Hard to really describe until you try it, but I'm pretty much sold on this yeast for anything that I would use an american ale yeast for.

So, you use CL-50 whenever a recipe call for 1056?

Denny, what would you suggest as a replacement for the Columbus Hops? (Can't find them here in the UK.) Also, since I can't find BrewTek CL-50 California Pub Brewery Ale or Wyeast 1272 Am. ale II, would AMERICAN ALE WLP060 yeast be a suitable replacement?

David, That's what I do. Anytime I would normally use something like 1056, I sub in CL-50. It has made a big difference, AFAIC.
But, then again, I also use the Pacman sometimes as well. But mostly CL-50

CLB, the gypsum isn't to adjust pH in the mash, but to add sulfate to the water to accentuate the hops. That's why it goes in the boil.

Carapils is also sold under the name "dextrin malt". It's basically a VERY light crystal.

Simon, Columbus hops are sometimes sold under the name Tomahawk, if you run across those. I know when Rogue made this beer they used something called "Columbus type" that was about 60% Centennial and 40% Cascade.

I'm with Marv and N8...if I've got CL-50 around and I need a clean American ale yeast, it's my go-to.

Cheers Denny. Doesn't seem that I can get Tomahawk hops either. I can however get Centennial and Cascade (only find cascade pellets but will look for whole)

Burp, setting up a pay-pal acount is no more difficult than setting up a tasybrew user account or buy any thing esls from a web site. They ask for user id, password, email address and then you pay with a credit card or derect diposit from your checking account.

Denny,

Is there science to the gypsum creating better hop utilization? Or is this a Denny-ism?

gypsum is calcium sulfate (not exactly, but pretty much). burton-on-trent water profile has especially high calcium and sulfate levels (http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-2.html). so denny didn't invent it.

Are you sure? What makes it work...should we all be doing this in every brew?

CLB -- That depends on your water chemistry. Portland water, for instance, is much softer than Pilsen's water. If I didn't treat my water with gypsum and other stuff, I could add half a pound of hops to a 5 gallon batch and have little bitterness and no hop flavor at all.

Sumptown - if you read my earlier post you will see that I also use gypsum in my mash water for every batch. I'm not a huge bitterness guy. My beer has been well balanced IMHO. Is there something to be gained by adding it to the boil?

You need to know what your brewing and your water profile, before you add water agents. Gypsum(calcium sulphate)is found in burton upon trent's(UK) water, in a high content, so all your trying to do is replicate their water profile.


Bopper

Ya, I see why you're adding gypsum to your mash water - so am I. But why to boil water? That's the point, not that it makes any difference. Denny thinks it does.

CLB: Water chemistry is a lot like voo doo, I think.

I have only done a little experimentation in the area, but my experience has been that treating my mash and sparge water gives me hoppier results than just adding the stuff post-mash and pre-boil.

I don't know why or if it's just my head playin' tricks on me.

I don't see what yer gettin' at, CLB. The chemistry of the boil liquor obviously make a difference. I guess if you add gypsum to your mash to adjust pH, then it would likely still have an influence in the boil, but I can't say from expereince since I don't need to adjust my mash pH. In that case, it comes down to adding it to the boil to get the sulftaes that accentuate the hops. Remeber when you were doing extract beers and they came with a little bag of gypsum to add to the kettle? same deal...Is that what you were asking?

Here's some info from HTB...

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html

http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter4-2.html - specifically this.."there are three ions that can be used to tweak the flavor. These ions are sodium, chloride, and sulfate. Briefly, sodium and chloride act to round out and accentuate the sweetness of the beer, while sulfate (from gypsum, for example) makes the hop bitterness more crisp. You need to know and understand the initial mineral profile of your brewing water before you start adding anything to it though. Too much sodium and sulfate can combine to produce a very harsh bitterness."

I am having a Rye faceoff with my brew buddy tonight... we both brewed close to Denny's recipe, but varied in the yeast department, mine was done with W1272 and his was done with US56.
I think I might come out on top as his was batch sparged and mine was a no
sparge/small beer brew. It will be interesting to taste two beers side by side with just a few minor tweaks to each - let the games begin!

Hey Denny, I am just jerkin your chain a little. I have no doubt that what you say is true. Thanks for the scientific info also. I know from some of your previous posts that you are a big hops guy so you would certainly notice the increased hop utilazation not to mention that you have brewed around a bazillion more batches that I have. Oh, by the way, I was also just ribbing you with the "dennism" remark. But I think it is a great word, what do ya think?

It's a great word, but a terrible thought...

Oh I don't know Denny with all that you have have contributed to this hobby you probably deserve your own word. I can see from all the fame and reconition you received lately you haven't even gotten a swelled head or should we talk to your fellow club members before we make that assumption?

"or should we talk to your fellow club members before we make that assumption? "..don't believe ANYTHING those guys tell ya...

I ordered the CL-50 yeast from the website Denny suggested(brewstersyeast.com) without a paypal account, just a normal credit/debit card. It was a slant, but for being my first time to use slants I found it was very easy to step it up.

Ryan, how did you do that? When I ignored thier policy and ordered I was taken to the PayPal page. I hate paypal so much. They keep sending me emails that my account needs attention.

Hey Burp.

**Attention**

Be very careful with that,,, there are many emails circulating out there, that look
very very like an official PayPal email.

If it really is from PayPal, they will address you by your full name at the beginning of the
email.

The fake ones don't have that info, however, you never know.

Make sure you never send info via email, and make sure to log into their website
to do any modifications. Also make sure that your little lock on the bottom of your
screen is *LOCKED*

They are probabally valid emails, as I used to get those, ... u may have changed something
in your address, and their automated system thinks something is "a-rye" ( plug for Denny's famous beer there hehe ) ....anyway, just be cautious !

Mark in Canada

Also, look at the URL that appears at the top right after you click on it. Fake ones usually revert to IP addresses and won't say paypal.com. I got one of these just the other day after using the real Paypal.

Yes, yes, yes, Big scam, very common, be careful. Many have fallen for this one. It works, thats why they are still doing it. always they want and information update. Paypal has to much margin for error or at least they did. I don't do it. If a business can't take a credit card themseves then you should just find another vendor.

I hope burp was kidding. But yeah, it's a scam.

Though I agree with him- pay pal sucks. Everyone gets stuck with fees fees fees.

Don't know BURP mine was procesessed right away. They even held it over the weekend and sent it on Monday. I got it on Wensday and have brewed many succesful batches with it!!!!