Hi Yall.

I am coming back to the states for three weeks for a wedding and a bit of a vacation.

While I am here I want to pick up homebrewing supplies I can't get outside of the states for the price.

Right now I have a boiling pot, 3 fermentors and a keggle on the way.

For my keggle I figure I need a weldless spigot (where is the best way to get it and what model is it?).
I want to make LT from a 10 gallon rubbermaid cool (weldless spigot would work here).

And I am picking up some kegs for a kegerator system?
Should I be buying these sets that I see on ebay and homebrewing sites, or should I try buying the pieces individually?

Any help would be appreciated.

All the best.

Where R U based now?
KEGGLE spigot-OK if for LT but not for boil pot
Most of my brew buddies SIPHON rather than drain the keggle via spigot.In fact I have a keggle with spigot I no longer use BECAUSE when the pile of material collects after the whirlpool one can guide the tip of a siphon around it whereas the spigot is fixed and I always had a lot of material left over.If u will have only one pot then U can have a spigot and it is easy to get a stepdrill ND A FWEW FITTINGS AND MAKE UR OWN
10 G COOLER -inmstead of a weldless fitting-just run a tube thru the exisiting fitting-No leaks and even if a tiny one it is only a few drops of water-read this
Start with your basic 10-gallon Rubbermaid or Gott cooler (mine is a Rubbermaid, purchased rather expensively at a restaurant supply.)

I ran the wort line out the spigot hole at the bottom, like everyone else. You have to remove the spigot. The spigot is held on with a large plastic nut on the inside, and a rubber gasket.

Here’s where my method departs from others I’ve seen. Gott has conveniently already solved the bulkhead problem with this spigot. Perhaps we can find a way to leverage their work. Since we were originally just going to throw this part away, we may as well take it apart first (in the interest of science). If you push the spigot button, you can use a sharp knife to cut off the plastic valve that will protrude from the inside of the spigot: The valve core will then fall out the other side.

To make this into a bulkhead fitting, we need to run a piece of tubing through the spigot body in a water-tight way. For good flow-rate and resistance to clogging, I used the ubiquitous 3/8″OD copper tubing from Home Depot. The spigot body has a hole straight through it that the core used to be in. The hole is too small for the 3/8″ tubing, but the spigot body has enough material that we can enlarge the hole just enough to get a tight fit. I just used a 3/8″ bit in the drill press:

Then you can push the copper tubing through the hole to complete the bulkhead fitting:

At this point, I replaced the spigot on the cooler, with the original rubber gasket and plastic nut. Filled with 10 gallons of water, it was water-tight. Nevertheless, to be extra sure, I applied some food-grade sealant around the joint on the inside.

And that is basically it. No futzing about with poorly-fitting rubber stoppers, no search for some elusive combination of Home Depot pipe-fittings (I wish I could get all that time and effort back now.)


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I am based in Israel.

Thanks for the tips I will keep that in consideration. I am thinking of purchasing a rubber made cooler from ebay.