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Subject: weak stove, no boil Author: JDBuzzingtonIII |
Mar 13th, 2010 2:58 am |
New to the scene. Successfully brewed (extract) kits with a friend, and started off in my own direction. I desperately wanted a strong IPA. The result tasted and smelled somewhere between sweaty feet and an unfinished beer left on the kitchen counter all weekend (not that I would do that; that's beer blasphemy). I THINK my problem may have been that my stove can't get 3 gallons of water to boil... I guessed, at the time, that it wouldn't matter, so I fermented it. When I popped the lid of the primary I knew something was off, but hoped that bottle conditioning would cure it. Nope.
I know my sanitation is damn-near hospital standards.
Anyone else ever have this problem?
My next batch I did on a propane burner outside - RAGING boil. My fingers are crossed.
I know my sanitation is damn-near hospital standards.
Anyone else ever have this problem?
My next batch I did on a propane burner outside - RAGING boil. My fingers are crossed.
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: bryguy |
Mar 13th, 2010 3:10 am |
How hot did it get? You don't need a raging boil, just a good rolling one, so don't feel the need to over-compensate.
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: JDBuzzingtonIII |
Mar 13th, 2010 3:13 am |
I am fairly certain the water was below boiling temp the entire time. Never even got a roller. I did, however, get impatient, so after 2 hours of waiting, I figured (hoped) it got hot enough.
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: OneHoppyGuy |
Mar 13th, 2010 7:56 am |
your crossed fingers brew should be ok
Boil is required for the purpose of breaking down proteins AND pasteurization. You want a minimum 1 hour boil.
"You don't need a raging boil, just a good rolling one, so don't feel the need to over-compensate."
Well put Bryan.
"I know my sanitation is damn-near hospital standards."
What are you using to sanitize?
Boil is required for the purpose of breaking down proteins AND pasteurization. You want a minimum 1 hour boil.
"You don't need a raging boil, just a good rolling one, so don't feel the need to over-compensate."
Well put Bryan.
"I know my sanitation is damn-near hospital standards."
What are you using to sanitize?
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: dactat |
Mar 13th, 2010 10:49 am |
I did the very same thing this evening, my first brew. I couldn't get the water to boil so I added the DME and hops anyway because my thermometer said it was a 150. After I added the DME they seemed to get the rolling boil going. Got it going a little too good. I got a tiny boil over. I wonder if the adding of the malt aids in the boil?
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: JDBuzzingtonIII |
Mar 13th, 2010 12:13 pm |
I use StarSan for sanitizing.
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: DavidS |
Mar 13th, 2010 1:07 pm |
" I wonder if the adding of the malt aids in the boil?"
The hot break does.
Here's some good info from Palmer:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-2.html
The hot break does.
Here's some good info from Palmer:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-2.html
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Subject: Re: weak stove, no boil Author: SOGOAK |
Mar 13th, 2010 2:41 pm |
I had trouble with the old burner. Or when the kab4 makes the tank too cold to produce gas quickly enough.
Now during winter brews I put a fresh warm tank on after my sparge water is hot. (1 burner 2 keggles still)
Soon it'll be warm enough for shorts, and people will want to "help" again.
I do think I'd go electric or natty gas if I started all over.
Luckily, my propane guy will top up tanks with the actual ammount I buy and not hammer me for a swap price.
Now during winter brews I put a fresh warm tank on after my sparge water is hot. (1 burner 2 keggles still)
Soon it'll be warm enough for shorts, and people will want to "help" again.
I do think I'd go electric or natty gas if I started all over.
Luckily, my propane guy will top up tanks with the actual ammount I buy and not hammer me for a swap price.
