I find my self moving my pump tubing around several times during a brew session. Are there any reliable, quick disconnect tubing connectors for 1/2" ID silicone? they must be able to handle boiling liquids. I'm sure Tri-clovers work well, but they're slow and very expensive.

Heheh, BB you knew exactly what I was going to say...

"I'm sure Tri-clovers work well, but they're slow and very expensive."

The problem is they aren't slow, they just require two hands usually. You can flip a clamp around a fitting and tighten it down in seconds. In my opinion with the stainless tri clamps the pros outweigh the cons. However for a better price the polysulphone disconnects will work fine, my main problem with them is there is a male and female connector. Tri clamps are a flat union so they fit together under any circumstance, however you need a gasket and clamp for each connection.

I didn't think polysulphone could handle boiling liquids.

Yeah Mr. C, I knew you'd pop in on this one. Where's a good plce to get the Tri-clover clamps at a reasonable price? Does the gasket have a lip on it that holds it on one of the fittings or is it lose?

BTW, Googleing clover clamps takes you to some very strange places.

I thought polysulphone could go up to 250*F, and since the march pump uses it and can handle boiling, I'd think they should be fine.

Tri-Clamp fittings (the metal part) have a groove in them to hold the gasket (http://www.moonshine-still.info/images/2malenpt2_thumb.jpg) and most gaskets now adays are 'flanged' gaskets meaning they have a lip on them to help them hold into place even more (http://www.csialloys.com/images/gaskets.jpg). Just press the gasket into the groove (it usually stays, but not always, some sanitizer sprayed on always seems to help).

There's not so much a cheap place to get them, but don't think of it as a cost as much as an investment. I've gotten some from MoreBeer before. StPats has good prices but I have heard nothing but bad things about their service. GWKent has tons of stock, great customer service, average prices.

Side note, Tri Clover is a brand name, Tri Clamp is the style. I can only imagine what comes up when you search for clover clamps

Polysulfone (PSU) will handle 100?C easily. I would trust it up to 175?C.

http://www.solvayadvancedpolymers.com/static/wma/pdf/1/0/2/3/RUEPPHWE.pdf
http://www.solvayadvancedpolymers.com/static/wma/pdf/1/9/9/5/LTHS_Sulfone.pdf

Use the Udel P1700 data. The quick connects could be glass fiber filled which means they would be even better.

This is not the same plastic as used in the March Pump housings. That is Polyphenylene Sullfide (PPS). It is also a high temp plastic.

"This is not the same plastic as used in the March Pump housings. That is Polyphenylene Sullfide (PPS). It is also a high temp plastic."

The ones sold from Northernbrewer and MoreBeer are polysulfone.

Hmmmm.... nipple-clammmps.....

How about this for tri-clamps and fittings?

http://www.advantapure.com/

The old March pumps were PPS (as mine is that I purchased from Moving Brews a long time ago). The March catalogue calls the plastic polysulfil. There is no such plastic. I've emailed March pumps to get a clarification.

It is possible that they changed materials somewhere along the line. Let's see what March says. One way or the other, the name should be corrected.

Not sure what the brad name is, but i bought the polysulfone quick releases from northern brewer and have had no problems thus far.

Do you run boiling wort through them?

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/ProdByID.aspx?ProdID=6069


Here is what I use, I love em. Have not had a leak at all.

Run them from the kettle, boiling wort. I put a piece of tubing between them and the kettle to avoid them getting hotter than 250 degrees.

They are what you want and the price is not horrible. Everytime I change connections I think about how great they are and what a PITA it was tightening hose clamps all the time...........

CLB

Yeah, Ive been using them for about 2 months now, with no problems. 14 bucks apiece though...

http://www.northernbrewer.com/allgrain.html

Cheaper at Midwest Supplies for what appears to be the same thing.......

CLB

Looks like these and they're rated to 280F. That's perfect, thanks for the help.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=6917&product%5Fid=7413

And yes, the quick connects are Polysulfone.

US Plastics they are coming from if they are coming from a place like morebeer / nb / midwest.

They'll work fine for what you are going for, I was looking at the same thing when I bought my stainless and seriously considered them. I just figured for a few extra bucks per fitting I'd go with stainless fittings, thats my rational.

I'm with MrCoffee on this one. I was all set to buy the plastic ones when I saw SS QD sets here: http://morebeer.com/view_product/7642/?PHPSESSID=ba835615befbea801083ff2108e9ef3b

I've picked up a couple so far and for the price I think they are the way to go.

I'm not trying to dissuade anyone but every time I've used plastics I've had them warp over time and switched them out eventually to SS. In most cases I'm sure it was a less than superior product and/or pilot error on my part that caused this but still...

It never really says if these are rated for boiling liquids. The stainless will obviously take it, but not sure of the o-ring.

I was able to confirm that the March 809 pumps uses a glass fiber filled polysulfone plastic for the housing (same polymer as the QD's but I don't know if the QD's are glass filled). It has always used this plastic. I have a different model March pump that does use PPS (Ryton).

If I had a choice, I would choose the PPS model but it's only a small margin improvement as the PPS is a rated for higher temps and is more chemical resistance. In home homebrewing applications, neither of those should come into play. Just don't use solvents to clean the pump housing (acetone, MEK, carb cleaner or the like). PPS is what they use to get the Teflon to stick to the frying pans. Again, neither advantage is necessary in a home brewing environment. I only mention the advantages of PPS so that people with older pumps don't think they need to upgrade theirs.

Cheers,
-Dan

"Again, neither advantage is necessary in a home brewing environment. I only mention the advantages of PPS so that people with older pumps don't think they need to upgrade theirs."

What, you guy's don't do hot caustic loops on all your parts?? ;D

Guess I should stop doing that at home.... JK!

Hot PBW is about as close to a hot caustic wash that I do. It is hot and it is basic but I don't think it quite gets into caustic territory. I save the lye for the homemade pretzels!